Category: Travel Posts

Remote and isolated. Ruggedly beautiful. Peace and tranquillity. Busy market towns. Scary busses. Terrible roads.

All of this is true for western Tanzania and Lake Tanganyika.

For the past two weeks this is what Chris and I have seen and experienced. It is a truly beautiful area, nowhere else have we felt like we are driving through the scenery of a David Attenborough documentary. 🙂

Along our route, we stopped off at Kasanga and the Liega Beach Lodge, where we spent our time camping on the beach, snorkelling and living the usual carefree beach existence. From our camp we could see straight across the crystal clear waters to the highlands of the DRC with vast cloud banks piled on top of them and we knew that the next storm was going to come through sooner rather than later…

We also visited the second highest waterfall in Africa. The Kalambo Falls are situated on the border between Zambia and Tanzania and are almost unknown. To see them, you have to get permission from the local headman to enter his lands, you sign the entry book, get a receipt for your entrance fee and then make your way along overgrown paths to the falls.

They are spectacular. The Kalambo River drops down 235m into a lush green gorge. Walking right up to the edge, you have to hold on to the surrounding trees if you want to see the bottom of the falls and into the gorge. There are no fences, no booms, no signs warning you that if you are stupid and fall, that the only thing that will stop you is the ground 235m below you. It was a great experience, appreciated all the more after being shepherded at Victoria Falls and its likes.

From here we once again headed north along an extremely bad road. On all of our five maps, the road from Sumbawanga to Uvinza is a main road and tarred. Not so. Although the Chinese are starting to build what will one day be a great road, at the moment it is a small, rutted, muddy, sticky, slippery road used by all vehicles traveling north or south. The amount of accidents involving large buses or trucks was really scary and considering the way they barrel down this road at full speed, it doesn’t surprise either. Chris and I made it through though, with nothing to show except our tired and stressed selves.

The bad roads did throw up one minor inconvenience though. On the rough roads two of our eight roof rack brackets snapped. We fixed the first in Kasanga, but the second time it happened, we were halfway through Katavi National Park and decided to fix it before we carried on.

We pulled over on to a wider section of dry road, got out the good old Pratley Steel Putty and fixed the bracket. Not trusting it to hold, we decided to wait for it to dry and thus enjoyed a very relaxed day on the main road of the National Park. Needless to say we must have been quite a sight. Two mzungus (white men) sitting in the shade of an awning, eating lunch with the safety triangles out in the middle of a game reserve. We had a great time waving at all the trucks and buses hooting their way past us. 🙂

A few hours later we were on our way again. Not 2 km down the road we spotted a huge male lion, comfortably resting in the shade of the road… Not what we wanted to see so close to where we had been sitting! However it turned out that our delay proved to be a waste of time, as another kilometer down the road, the same bracket we had just repaired broke apart again. Oh well…

During our long and slow process on this road north, we had been listening to the epic adventures of Dr. Livingstone and Stanley in the audio book version of “Into Africa”. Enchanted by this fascinating tale, we were happy that Ujiji was on our route and that we would see the famous spot where Stanley found Dr. Livingstone and uttered: “Dr. Livingstone, I presume” in 1871.

Having spent a few days recuperating on our private beach (yes really J) at Jackobsen Beach, we picked a rainy morning and headed to Ujiji. Considering how famous both Dr. Livingstone and Stanley are and the importance of what they achieved, it was surprising that it is almost impossible to find any reference of them in Tanzania. Even in Ujiji it was extremely difficult to find the museum erected in their memory. After much asking we did find it. A small fenced in building under a large mango tree. The entrance fee was extortionate at TZSH 20,000.00, about US$ 13.00, for a building that you can walk through in five minutes and a mango tree which you can see from the road!

Needless to say we did not go in. Even though this might sound drastic, we did not see why we should pay that amount of money to enter a derelict building, which shows a few artists’ impressions of the famous scene and a few plaques with facts and figures. It was a real shame.

Considering the time that we have spent in Tanzania so far, it is quite surprising that  neither Chris nor I can seem to make our mind up whether we like Tanzania or not. The people can be friendly and helpful, but they aren’t always thus. The scenery is spectacular, but the roads that lead you through it are so bad, that you cannot afford to lose your concentration to look at it. It has some of the best and most famous national parks / game reserves in the world, but they expect you to pay well over US$ 100.00 a day for the privilege of driving through them. Never mind actually wanting to spend a night camping in one!

All in all it is a pity. We so much wanted to love Tanzania, but it’s very difficult to do so.

Having left Malawi behind us, we made tracks to the Tanzanian border worrying about this notorious border crossing and what it would bring. Surprisingly we made it through relatively easily. Our passports were stamped, the car’s carnet was signed and sealed and all that was left was the third party insurance.

Imagine our surprise when we get to the insurance company and they offer us COMESA third party insurance! We explained to them that Chris and I are South Africans and that our car is also registered in SA and that we had tried to buy COMESA insurance in both Zambia and Malawi, but had been turned down in both countries.

According to the Tanzanian insurance company all of that is irrelevant though, as in Tanzania cars registered in RSA are still viable for the COMESA insurance.

So guess what, after my little tirade in Zambia, Chris and I are now the proud owners of the coveted COMESA third party insurance.

I’ll tell you one thing though, it’s a very small piece of paper for so much hassle and I really hope that this is the last time that Chris and I have to fight our way through the insurance fiasco. Only time will tell…

Mushroom Farm Eco Lodge is situated on the Nyika Plateau and probably has the best views in Malawi. Perched on the escarpment, it overlooks Lake Malawi and on a clear day offers you views of both Mozambique and Tanzania as well.

14 years ago Micky Wild started the lodge after discovering the amazing possibilities for  adventure sports on the plateau. The camp started out as a base camp from where they used to abseil down the Manchewe falls and Chombe peak.  As things got busier, Mick set up what we now know as the Mushroom Farm.

The Mushroom Farm has now been taken over by Cameron and Maddy, a brother and sister team. Together with the help of Naomi and James, they have their own plans for the future of the Eco Lodge and have already started implementing changes in both the farm as well as the local community. They started the Women’s Group and encourage them to market the coffee produced on the plateau through a coffee shop, which is just being constructed, allowing the local ladies an opportunity to showcase their skills and giving them a place to get together.

Having spent a week with Cameron, Naomi, James, Efreda and the ladies, we got to know them all well. Learning about the plans for the future, discussing recipes for the local produce, drinking the delicious coffee and generally absorbing the vibe of “Life on the Edge” 🙂

This all sounds very complacent though. But don’t worry, we didn’t just spend our time chatting, we were active as well. We proved that the Mushroom Farm actually produces lots of delicious mushrooms, even finding Chanterelles! And yes, they were delicious in a creamy sauce with Semmelknödel 🙂

Chris took Cameron and James abseiling down Chombe peak, in what he calls “the best abseil he’s ever done”. He went mountain biking, hiking and even slack lined across the little stream running through camp.

The plateau is also home to a town called Livingstonia, named after the famous scottish  explorer, Dr. David Livingstone. A lovely town with tree lined avenues, a large university  

and  even a cathedral it is home to some very friendly and interesting characters that we got to know during our stay. Kennedy showed Chris around the plateau, taking him to see the caves hidden behind the Manchewe Falls, which were used as hiding places from the slavers. With a good knowledge of the plateau,the surrounds and it’s history, Kennedy made our stay all the better.

While Chris was off being active, I spent my time getting to know the youngsters of Mushroom Farm. While we were staying there, Naomi and James presented Cameron with an early birthday present. Named “Chipati”, this little puppy was soon everybodys favourite. Being a cat lover though, I never neglected my cats. Momma Cat (yes, that’s her name) had three beautiful kittens that had just opened their eyes the week before and last year’s kitten (named Kitten) was my favourite. We all had a great time with the little ones, deciding who gets to keep what and where Chipati and Kitten get to spend the night…

Thank you guys for all the great memories! Keep the ideas coming and we’ll see you on the way back!

P.S.: keep the climbing gear handy 😉

Sitting in the bay at Cape MacClear two islands loom just in front of you. Domwe Island looked like you could reach it by crossing a 150m channel. This was too tempting an adventure to let go.

So on a pleasant morning I set off around the bay towards the channel between the mainland and Domwe. The first 30 min walk along the beach was easy, but then I ran into a boulder field that took me another 50 min of intense scrambling, climbing and jumping before reaching the channel.

The channel had a strong current pulling through it and admittedly some slightly suspect reed beds. Suspect, as this is crocodile area. So I hunkered down for a little while to observe and check the water. I stuffed the few things I was carrying into a dry bag: camera, pocket knife, banana and granola bar and plunged in for the swim. There was a small outcropping in the middle of the channel and I was glad to reach it as the current was pulling me into out into the lake. There I quickly surveyed the crystal clear blue water around me and was back in it to cross the second length of water. Glad to have made it, I paused briefly on the other side to catch my breath.

I then started to make my way along the edge of this 3km long island, towards a ridge, so as to climb to the top of the island. While hopping from stone to stone along the bank, I met a really friendly fisherman called Green, who immediately confirmed my suspicions about the channel. He told me that it is an area where crocs irregularly appear. So now I really wasn’t keen on swimming back the way I had come. I immediately changed my plans to go to the top of the island and asked Green if they could ferry me back in one of their Bwatas (canoes). Green told me that he and the other fishermen had had a good catch that day and had just arrived on the island to have a late lunch of Nsima and Chambo (maize porridge and fish). And so he and his three other collages Dave, Isaac and Dickson invited me for lunch.  

Dave the senior in the group started the fire for the nsima while we grabbed some firewood for the fish. In the meantime Isaac was gutting and scaling the fish and then spicing it with some plain salt. He then proceeded to butterfly the fish on a stick and flame grill it in front of a very hot fire.

When the nsima was ready they poured it out onto two big leaves to cool. Shortly after, Isaac brought the Chambo.

Lunch was very simple, but absolutely delicious!

After lunch Green and Isaac took me into the middle of their Bwata and asked me to sit still while Dave and Dickson cruised alongside. The crossing back to Cape Maclear was swift and they dropped me on the beach.

While walking back I was thinking about how amazingly friendly they had been. First off for inviting me to an amazing lunch and then for taking me back to the main land and not asking or expecting any form of compensation in return.

I did of course organise our fish from Green for the rest of our stay. J    

Our campsite at the Ku Chawe trout farm lay directly next to a mountain stream in the middle of a forest clearing. What better place to keep your drinks cools than in a cool mountain stream, especially as we needed to defrost and clean the fridge.  I found a still spot in the water behind a large boulder and between some roots and here decided to keep a bottle of juice, 6 tonic waters for G&T’s and the last 6 of my Windhoek Lager beers.

I was very aware of the fact that if the water should rise, that the stash would then be missing. And true to the rainy season, that night it stormed.

The next morning I went to check and only found the tonic water… So I began to wade downriver.  Luckily this is something I enjoy doing.  However,  I do have to point out that it is very slippery, cold, overgrown with branches and thorn bushes and that there are many places for a six pack of beer to vanish to.

Nevertheless, I was determined and found the juice just 300m downstream, floating under a patch of brambles. My faith rekindled I continued downstream in hope of beer.

After about 45 min and 1.5km of slipping, sliding, tripping and swimming and just before calling the search off I spotted the promising sight of something green and sparkly. I couldn’t believe my luck to have found my last glorious Windhoek lagers wedged 20 cm underwater! Very lucky indeed!

So I turned around and headed back upstream, celebrating with a cool beer.

That afternoon, we removed all the drinks from the river before nightfall. 🙂

Taking a drive around the plateau, we were constantly confronted by guys taking fire wood down to Zomba town. Here they would sell the wood and earn money for food.

Their mode of transport for this was bicycles. They cycle up the plateau in the morning, chop the wood, pack it onto the bike and then make their way down again.

We met one guy along the way whose bike had broken, fully loaded. Chris helped him fix his bike and off he went again.

The pictures speak for themselves… These guys are STRONG! 

Mount Mulanje is Malawi’s highest mountain, with its highest peak, Sapitwa (meaning: don’t go there) reaching 3001 metres. We’d always said that we would climb this mountain, as it is very beautiful and remote – perfect for us!

Having reached the Likhabula Forestry Office we soon met our guide Ramson and sorted out the route that we would be taking: First night at Chambe hut; ascend Sapitwa Peak the following morning; Thuchila hut on the second night; descend to Likhabula on the third day. 

At 05:30 the next morning we got up, made sure that we were packed and ready to go and met up with Ramson.  The three of us headed up the very steep mountainside, enjoying the spectacular views, lush rainforest and beauty around us. Along the way Ramson told us all about the various fauna and flora surrounding us, giving us insight into both the local community, as well as the mountain itself.

The path was very slippery and following the trail required a lot of concentration. Unfortunately, Astrid’s foot started hurting and to top it all, it started raining as well. Taking a breather at the halfway mark, Ramson decided to help Astrid by taking her pack. Even though this helped, it did not improve the pain in her foot, making us aware of an apparent chronic injury. Great!

Despite that, we made it to Chambe hut and were greatly impressed by what seemed to us an alpine chalet, which could have been taken from anywhere in the Alps. The caretaker had stoked a roaring fire in the cabin, allowing us to dry all our wet gear, play Bao with Ramson and generaly rest and recuperate in the warm and dry. By late afternoon the rain had stopped, leaving behind mist covered views of Chambe Peak in front of us. What a wonderful setting!

That afternoon we decided to change our plans and bypass summiting Sapitwa the next day. There was just too much cloud cover, the paths were too wet and slippery and the last stretch to the summit is an unsecured scramble over large boulders, not really worth it in the terrible weather we’d been having. So the decision was made to take an alternate route to the other side of Mulanje, namely to Lichenya hut.

Feeling much better in the morning, Astrid decided to carry her pack again and we set off meandering across an amazing plateau. It was a strange setting to be in, with mountain peaks hidden in the mist, meadows covered in wild flowers, dense rain forests and fields of proteas scattered between it. It felt very mystical with the fog banks rolling over and obscuring everything, only allowing occasional glimpses of blue sky and sun. Definitely very dramatic! Lichenya hut is situated in the middle of a pine forest covered in Old Man’s Beard. Once again we were welcomed by a warm fire and had the lovely log cabin all to ourselves. We watched the rain and the Blue monkeys go by, thinking what a wonderful place we were in and how much we would enjoy coming back here with family and friends. We would sit around the fire at night, grilling marshmallows and chatting. Maybe some day we’ll have company and do just that. 🙂

The following morning Astrid’s feet were still hurting, but we had no choice but to start down the mountain to Likhabula. The descent offered great views over the areas below Mulanje, allowing you to appreciate both the height and the steepness of the descent. In some places you really do not want to take a wrong step – if you do, you’ll have a long drop and a sudden stop at the end.

By the time that we reached the car we were very relieved. Astrid could finally get off her feet, we could remain dry and we no longer had to pay attention to each step you took, in case you slip and fall. Over all we had an amazing time hiking on Mount Mulanje. We had been warned before coming that the conditions would not be ideal, but to us the rain and fog only enhanced the beauty and the mystique of the mountain. For everyone who enjoys hiking, Mount Mulanje is definitely a major highlight for anyone visiting Malawi.

During our time on the mountain we also came across Mulanje Cedar, which only grows on the mountain. It is highly prized for its rarity, as well as its value as a beautiful carving wood. Unfortunately, the Cedars are being illegally logged across the mountainside, but the authorities are introducing Cedar plantations to the lower slopes to prevent the poaching. All products of Mulanje Cedar from the Likhabula craft market are from the plantation and therefore legal. The crafters here are some of the best we have found so far, their work is very exact, creative and beautiful, so if you’re looking for a wonderfully carved Bao game, some jewellery or a perfectly fitted box, you can get it here at Malawian prices.        

Having left Livingstone behind us, we spent the night surrounded by proteas and orchids, thinking we were much further south in the Highveld again.

We were unsure as to what to see and do next, as the road conditions in all of Zambia were very uncertain. Thus Chris and I decided to head to Choma, where we could find out whether we should head towards Kafue National Park, or towards Lake Kariba depending on how passable the roads were.

We found our answer in the form of the owner of the local hardware store, who informed us that the roads to Lake Kariba were impassable, but that it was possible to go towards Kafue. He also mentioned that the Kafue roads weren’t in great shape, but should be driveable – with a 4X4.

The road to Namwala was tarred, if worn down. However, having passed through Namwala, we found out that the locals had created a two-track through the wetlands running parallel to the main road, as the original road was in a truly shocking condition.

We traversed this two-track for 30 very slow, bumpy and muddy kilometres, finally ending at a real obstacle. The Kafue River. Having thought that the track we were on would lead us to a bridge, we were quite surprised to find the means of crossing the river to be a ferry.

Thus the Rock Rabbit, Chris and I had our first ferry crossing. It was quite something to be on this iron ferry, which had been absorbing the sun’s heat all day and to feel that heat reflected back at you – making you feel that your plastic slops would melt!

Having crossed the Kafue successfully, we found the road to be much improved. Thus we managed to reach our campsite on the banks of the Itezhi-Tezh Lake, just as the sun was setting. And good that we did, as the sunset proved to be one of the most spectacular so far.

Early the next morning we crossed into Kafue National Park, ready to take on the 280km of watchful driving ahead of us. Kafue is HUGE – really, really huge.  The first few hours provided only a few very interesting birds, until we almost decapitated a huge rock python sunning itself across the road. Driving around the corner, admittedly looking for birds in the treetops, we thought the 4m python was a branch lying across the road. Chris reacted by swerving the car onto the embankment, missing the snake by mere centimetres. We quickly did a U-turn, wanting to make sure the reptile was unharmed. We just caught the last few glimpses of it sailing off into the dense underbrush, happily completely unharmed.

Now very much alert, our next “Kafue Special” was a trio of Cheetahs, lazily lolling in the shade of the road. The mother and her two adolescent cubs were very fat off of their last kill and had no interest whatsoever in either us, or the fact that we kept creeping closer to get a better look at them. We thus had a truly spectacular sighting, with no one else around! Rare indeed…

Chris and I decided to leave the park, after our initial plan of spending the night at the Community Campsite was dashed. The camp offered no facilities or amenities whatsoever and for the patch of grass that we would camp on, they wanted to charge us US$ 25,00 per person!

However, this turned out for the best, as we spotted a pack of over 20 Wild Dogs playing on the rainy road in front of us! What a spectacular ending to our “Kafue Specials”.

We’ll be back…

Before we left on our trip, Chris and I did extensive research on all aspects that we could think of, including insurance. During our research we came across something very useful, namely the COMESA Yellow Card (Third Party insurance). This insurance can only be obtained from a COMESA country and enables you to travel to all the COMESA  countries (Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania, ……), without having to get a new policy at each and every border. It also works out significantly cheaper than buying a new policy at each border you cross.

Zambia is the first COMESA country on our trip and Livingstone the first large town where we could have our Yellow Card issued. With our prep work done, Chris and I head for the closest insurance company. We walk into the office, are greeted by the very friendly and helpful gentleman and then get a bombshell placed in our laps.

The COMESA Yellow Card insurance may no longer be issued to a South African registered vehicle! The reason for this seems to be very vague, even unknown to the insurance agents of Livingstone, but what makes it even worse is the fact that this new legislation was apparently only passed in December 2013! So now Chris and I have to buy a new insurance policy at each border we cross between Zambia and Ethiopia. Frustrating and expensive to say the least!

To whichever person or company that is responsible for this change, whether in South Africa or in the COMESA countries, let it be known that this is a very bad turn of events. All “foreign” registered vehicles are now being extorted for vast sums of money.