Author: rabbitsv

Sitting in the bay at Cape MacClear two islands loom just in front of you. Domwe Island looked like you could reach it by crossing a 150m channel. This was too tempting an adventure to let go.

So on a pleasant morning I set off around the bay towards the channel between the mainland and Domwe. The first 30 min walk along the beach was easy, but then I ran into a boulder field that took me another 50 min of intense scrambling, climbing and jumping before reaching the channel.

The channel had a strong current pulling through it and admittedly some slightly suspect reed beds. Suspect, as this is crocodile area. So I hunkered down for a little while to observe and check the water. I stuffed the few things I was carrying into a dry bag: camera, pocket knife, banana and granola bar and plunged in for the swim. There was a small outcropping in the middle of the channel and I was glad to reach it as the current was pulling me into out into the lake. There I quickly surveyed the crystal clear blue water around me and was back in it to cross the second length of water. Glad to have made it, I paused briefly on the other side to catch my breath.

I then started to make my way along the edge of this 3km long island, towards a ridge, so as to climb to the top of the island. While hopping from stone to stone along the bank, I met a really friendly fisherman called Green, who immediately confirmed my suspicions about the channel. He told me that it is an area where crocs irregularly appear. So now I really wasn’t keen on swimming back the way I had come. I immediately changed my plans to go to the top of the island and asked Green if they could ferry me back in one of their Bwatas (canoes). Green told me that he and the other fishermen had had a good catch that day and had just arrived on the island to have a late lunch of Nsima and Chambo (maize porridge and fish). And so he and his three other collages Dave, Isaac and Dickson invited me for lunch.  

Dave the senior in the group started the fire for the nsima while we grabbed some firewood for the fish. In the meantime Isaac was gutting and scaling the fish and then spicing it with some plain salt. He then proceeded to butterfly the fish on a stick and flame grill it in front of a very hot fire.

When the nsima was ready they poured it out onto two big leaves to cool. Shortly after, Isaac brought the Chambo.

Lunch was very simple, but absolutely delicious!

After lunch Green and Isaac took me into the middle of their Bwata and asked me to sit still while Dave and Dickson cruised alongside. The crossing back to Cape Maclear was swift and they dropped me on the beach.

While walking back I was thinking about how amazingly friendly they had been. First off for inviting me to an amazing lunch and then for taking me back to the main land and not asking or expecting any form of compensation in return.

I did of course organise our fish from Green for the rest of our stay. J    

Our campsite at the Ku Chawe trout farm lay directly next to a mountain stream in the middle of a forest clearing. What better place to keep your drinks cools than in a cool mountain stream, especially as we needed to defrost and clean the fridge.  I found a still spot in the water behind a large boulder and between some roots and here decided to keep a bottle of juice, 6 tonic waters for G&T’s and the last 6 of my Windhoek Lager beers.

I was very aware of the fact that if the water should rise, that the stash would then be missing. And true to the rainy season, that night it stormed.

The next morning I went to check and only found the tonic water… So I began to wade downriver.  Luckily this is something I enjoy doing.  However,  I do have to point out that it is very slippery, cold, overgrown with branches and thorn bushes and that there are many places for a six pack of beer to vanish to.

Nevertheless, I was determined and found the juice just 300m downstream, floating under a patch of brambles. My faith rekindled I continued downstream in hope of beer.

After about 45 min and 1.5km of slipping, sliding, tripping and swimming and just before calling the search off I spotted the promising sight of something green and sparkly. I couldn’t believe my luck to have found my last glorious Windhoek lagers wedged 20 cm underwater! Very lucky indeed!

So I turned around and headed back upstream, celebrating with a cool beer.

That afternoon, we removed all the drinks from the river before nightfall. 🙂

Taking a drive around the plateau, we were constantly confronted by guys taking fire wood down to Zomba town. Here they would sell the wood and earn money for food.

Their mode of transport for this was bicycles. They cycle up the plateau in the morning, chop the wood, pack it onto the bike and then make their way down again.

We met one guy along the way whose bike had broken, fully loaded. Chris helped him fix his bike and off he went again.

The pictures speak for themselves… These guys are STRONG! 

Mount Mulanje is Malawi’s highest mountain, with its highest peak, Sapitwa (meaning: don’t go there) reaching 3001 metres. We’d always said that we would climb this mountain, as it is very beautiful and remote – perfect for us!

Having reached the Likhabula Forestry Office we soon met our guide Ramson and sorted out the route that we would be taking: First night at Chambe hut; ascend Sapitwa Peak the following morning; Thuchila hut on the second night; descend to Likhabula on the third day. 

At 05:30 the next morning we got up, made sure that we were packed and ready to go and met up with Ramson.  The three of us headed up the very steep mountainside, enjoying the spectacular views, lush rainforest and beauty around us. Along the way Ramson told us all about the various fauna and flora surrounding us, giving us insight into both the local community, as well as the mountain itself.

The path was very slippery and following the trail required a lot of concentration. Unfortunately, Astrid’s foot started hurting and to top it all, it started raining as well. Taking a breather at the halfway mark, Ramson decided to help Astrid by taking her pack. Even though this helped, it did not improve the pain in her foot, making us aware of an apparent chronic injury. Great!

Despite that, we made it to Chambe hut and were greatly impressed by what seemed to us an alpine chalet, which could have been taken from anywhere in the Alps. The caretaker had stoked a roaring fire in the cabin, allowing us to dry all our wet gear, play Bao with Ramson and generaly rest and recuperate in the warm and dry. By late afternoon the rain had stopped, leaving behind mist covered views of Chambe Peak in front of us. What a wonderful setting!

That afternoon we decided to change our plans and bypass summiting Sapitwa the next day. There was just too much cloud cover, the paths were too wet and slippery and the last stretch to the summit is an unsecured scramble over large boulders, not really worth it in the terrible weather we’d been having. So the decision was made to take an alternate route to the other side of Mulanje, namely to Lichenya hut.

Feeling much better in the morning, Astrid decided to carry her pack again and we set off meandering across an amazing plateau. It was a strange setting to be in, with mountain peaks hidden in the mist, meadows covered in wild flowers, dense rain forests and fields of proteas scattered between it. It felt very mystical with the fog banks rolling over and obscuring everything, only allowing occasional glimpses of blue sky and sun. Definitely very dramatic! Lichenya hut is situated in the middle of a pine forest covered in Old Man’s Beard. Once again we were welcomed by a warm fire and had the lovely log cabin all to ourselves. We watched the rain and the Blue monkeys go by, thinking what a wonderful place we were in and how much we would enjoy coming back here with family and friends. We would sit around the fire at night, grilling marshmallows and chatting. Maybe some day we’ll have company and do just that. 🙂

The following morning Astrid’s feet were still hurting, but we had no choice but to start down the mountain to Likhabula. The descent offered great views over the areas below Mulanje, allowing you to appreciate both the height and the steepness of the descent. In some places you really do not want to take a wrong step – if you do, you’ll have a long drop and a sudden stop at the end.

By the time that we reached the car we were very relieved. Astrid could finally get off her feet, we could remain dry and we no longer had to pay attention to each step you took, in case you slip and fall. Over all we had an amazing time hiking on Mount Mulanje. We had been warned before coming that the conditions would not be ideal, but to us the rain and fog only enhanced the beauty and the mystique of the mountain. For everyone who enjoys hiking, Mount Mulanje is definitely a major highlight for anyone visiting Malawi.

During our time on the mountain we also came across Mulanje Cedar, which only grows on the mountain. It is highly prized for its rarity, as well as its value as a beautiful carving wood. Unfortunately, the Cedars are being illegally logged across the mountainside, but the authorities are introducing Cedar plantations to the lower slopes to prevent the poaching. All products of Mulanje Cedar from the Likhabula craft market are from the plantation and therefore legal. The crafters here are some of the best we have found so far, their work is very exact, creative and beautiful, so if you’re looking for a wonderfully carved Bao game, some jewellery or a perfectly fitted box, you can get it here at Malawian prices.